Cut & Barrel

Truly accomplished Latin kitchens are few and far between in Budapest – which is precisely why Cut & Barrel deserves attention. Brazilian–Portuguese chef André Bicalho grew up in Brazil and trained in the world of fine dining, an experience that resonates in every dish. He currently helms two kitchens: the Matador at Haraszthy Winery in Etyek and Cut & Barrel in Óbuda. The chef’s jacket is clearly in capable hands – he describes his style as Latin American and Basque “contact cuisine.” The setting is distinctive – an industrial location in Óbuda, adjacent to the Winehub wine club and home to a number of spirited projects. The restaurant has majestic bones: sunlit interiors with soaring windows, where industrial architecture blends with contemporary bar aesthetics and ranch-style furnishings. What emerges from the kitchen is far from typical bistro fare. The chef’s pursuit of precision is evident from the menu alone. We came for lunch but were still greeted with an amuse-bouche. The flavours are bright, confident and resolutely Latin. Scallop ceviche, served simply in two shells, was enlivened with apple, cucumber and chilli for an elegant, refreshing dish. The Josper-grilled tenderloin, without enquiring after doneness, arrived perfectly medium rare on a spectacular, sizzling stone slab with three house-made sauces. The truffle roast potatoes would benefit from a little more care – they should match the same high standard as the meat. With a strong wine list and a kitchen full of verve, Cut & Barrel brings exuberant flair to Óbuda’s gastronomic map.