Costes Restaurant

Costes is not just a fine dining restaurant – it is a symbol, a standard-bearer, and the founding member of a group that redefined Hungarian gastronomy. When it opened in 2008, owner Károly Gerendai made a bold move by inviting Portuguese and Argentinian chefs. Today, Costes stands as one of the city’s longest-running fine dining institutions – and one that has undergone a striking transformation in recent years. At the heart of this renewal is Jenő Rácz, one of the country’s most celebrated chefs. As co-owner, chef patron, he has ushered in a new era at Costes. Day-to-day operations are led by head chef János Erdei, a quiet talent with an impressive résumé – one to watch in the years ahead. The formal, white-gloved service of the early days has given way to an atmosphere that is still refined, but now less uptight and far friendlier. The dining room has been reborn: sombre tones replaced by natural hues, starched cloths by placemats, stiff chairs by plush seating. Guests choose between a 7+2-course tasting menu or a shorter 4+2 version available three times a week. Premium ingredients take centre stage – scallops, pigeon, mangalitsa pork, French black truffles – grounded in classical French technique. Yet the tone steers clear of pretension: foie gras comes with beetroot sharpened by Japanese umeboshi plum; cheesecake is twisted with the warm spice of Senegal pepper. It’s a globetrotting journey of seemingly dissonant pairings, but it works. One course riffs on a Waldorf salad with a dashi dressing; another – a crisp chickpea panipuri – evokes India juxtaposed with Welsh rarebit. Despite the riot of colours, flavours, textures and techniques, every dish sings in harmony – bold elements blending into one another with grace. Service is almost theatrical: each course is introduced in detail, immersing guests in the story behind every plate. Alongside a premium wine and champagne list, guests can also opt for cocktails created to pair with the dishes. Costes remains a pillar of Hungary’s fine dining scene – a pioneering, era-defining restaurant. It’s a joy to see 4 Ráday Street once more brimming with life.