Borkonyha étterem

Under the direction of celebrity chef Ákos Sárközi, Borkonyha became a cornerstone of Hungarian gourmet dining. Today, it’s head chef Csaba Puskás who leads the kitchen and develops new dishes. Located near the Basilica, Borkonyha welcomes a steady flow of tourists, but it’s also heartening to hear the hum of Hungarian at neighbouring tables—the owners have made a conscious effort to keep the restaurant accessible. Though the kitchen is top-tier, Borkonyha’s quintessential charm lies in its lack of pretension. The à la carte offering is guest-friendly: there’s no obligation to opt for the six-course tasting menu, and diners can revel in the experience without the constraints of degustation. With its closely set tables, chalkboard menu and arched ceilings, the space evokes a Parisian bistro—yet the kitchen’s output far exceeds bistro expectations. The seasonal menu gives pride of place to ingredients, and in both complexity and presentation, Csaba Puskás’s creations uphold the high standards established by Sárközi. Desserts are a particular highlight, with pastry chef Anett Béres’s creations garnering consistent praise. The “Celery, Pear, Chestnut” dish we tried was a masterclass in how to elevate a humble root vegetable, with celery appearing in multiple forms—from a grilled ‘steak’ and silky purée to delicate steamed cones. The striking “Chocolate, Beetroot, Lemon Verbena” dessert offered an intensely sweet chocolate base brightened by beetroot in shifting hues and a lively play of sweet and sour notes. The influence of the two owners’ backgrounds is evident in the restaurant’s smooth operation. Zoltán Kalocsai is a trained sommelier, while Tamás Horváth brings a wealth of experience in hospitality. The wine list is a standout, with thoughtful pairings offered for each dish and the option to order everything by the glass. Service is polished, knowledgeable, and warmly conversational, with wine or non-alcoholic pairings suggested throughout and dessert courses matched to sweet wines. After fifteen years, Borkonyha remains the benchmark for relaxed fine dining.