Bor és Garnéla

Kecskemét’s market hall may not be much to look at, but tucked inside the drab socialist-era building is a cosy little gastropub that feels otherworldly. The black terrace furniture and moody interior might suggest heaviness, but Bor és Garnéla (Wine and Shrimp) is all about light, sun-drenched, tropical flavours. The pun in their slogan is forgivable, “Rák n’ roll” (rák means shrimp) because the shrimp is the muse behind pho special, tom yum, rice noodle dumplings, sandwiches and other comforting crowd-pleasers. Glasses aren’t just filled with good wines, bubbles and spirits – panna cotta also makes an occasional appearance. It’s a bold concept in an unexpected setting – and refreshingly, it’s not confined to market hours but stays open well into the night.