Forgó étterem

Forgó Restaurant sits on the banks of the Danube, just north of Szentendre Island – a kind of inn de luxe turning out honest, comforting food. Indoors, it’s neat and inviting with homey décor and plush armchairs. If the terrace matched the quality of the interior, it could easily become a true riverside haven. Service is efficient and attentive, not the chatty sort – staff glide in and out almost imperceptibly, but everything arrives swiftly and precisely. They’ve been serving a surprisingly imaginative blend of Hungarian and Swabian cuisine for over 36 years now, well above the usual fare served in inns. Portions are generous, as tradition demands – if you order three courses, chances are you’ll be asking for a box to take half your main course home, just to leave room for dessert. The drinks list is fairly humdrum, but it does the job nicely if you fancy a spritzer or a cold beer to go with your hearty meal. The bryndza dumplings with crispy bacon are a highlight – freshly made, rich and moist, this is comfort food that would make any grandmother proud. Vegetarians are in good hands too: the cauliflower steak with sweet potato purée, beluga lentils and date pesto is thoughtful and satisfying – the cauliflower nicely caramelised, the pesto more like a chutney, but the components combine colourfully. Our curd dumpling leaned too heavily on the semolina and came out a little firmer than ideal, but the floating islands was spot on. Dunabogdány may be one of the quieter spots in the Danube Bend, but Forgó Restaurant is reason enough to make the trip.