Grumpy Budapest

Szilvi Ispán, known as Sisi, is something of a phenomenon. After 16 years heading Menza, she opened Grumpy, an all-day brunch spot on Klauzál Street. It’s a cheerful, bustling place with plenty to tempt the senses: specialty coffee, good wines, spritzes, a strong cocktail list, and beyond the obligatory bacon and eggs, a globetrotting menu. Chicken tikka masala comes wrapped in dürüm flatbread to honour Indian-Turkish friendship, while the posh-sounding tarte flambée is a rare treat – a crisp, juicy onion tart. The layered potato tastes like home, and at last, a place where whipped-cream-topped apple strudel is always on offer. Even the grumpy cat mascot has come to life – and judging by the branded merch, Grumpy goes beyond just a brunch joint.