Hollandi8 Kitchen

Sitting on the banks of a Danube branch in Csepel, and neighbouring a cluster of sports fields, Hollandi8 is a contemporary space enclosed in glass, which floods the interior with natural light. Inside, guests are seated on plush, well-upholstered chairs, and service is attentive and polite. The Szeged-style fish soup we tried was harmonious in flavour, though the use of African catfish came as a surprise, and the expected matchstick pasta was replaced by spaetzle. Still, the addition of milt and roe lent the broth a rich, indulgent texture. The delectable roast pork knuckle audibly crackled, its meat steaming, tender and yielding. The curd dumpling was light, zingy and fluffy. Toasted panko and a drizzle of honey-sweetened sour cream proved excellent accompaniments. Hollandi8 is well-executed and quietly assured—not aiming to dazzle with theatrics or surprise, but simply offering good food in the outer districts, where stellar bistros remain few and far between.