AGOS Restaurant

In Víziváros (Waterside Town), the old Radetzky Barracks stood abandoned for nearly two decades on Bem Square. Today, only its venerable Danube-facing façade remains; behind it, a sleek office building and the Kimpton Bem Hotel rise in its place. Among Budapest’s most striking restaurants, AGOS owes much of its allure to its spellbinding architecture. Dutch design icon Marcel Wanders drew on the Hungarian legend of the wonder stag to conjure the interior’s theatrical flair. One monumental table begins indoors and appears to burst through the window, continuing onto the terrace. Every room feels like a world unto itself, while upstairs, the rooftop bar invites guests to linger over drinks. The menu treads gracefully between Hungarian and Mediterranean flavours, spotlighting also some house specialities like the showstopping venison Wellington for two. Each dish comes with a suggested wine pairing, the cellar meandering from Tokaj to Tuscany. And if the two dozen cocktails don’t suffice, the adjoining bar offers an even broader selection. Service is friendly and prompt; on our visit, the team’s genuine attentiveness offset a few teething troubles. As a starter, a glass cloche filled with smoke was lifted to reveal wafer-thin ruby-red tuna, delicately arranged with caper blossoms and bonito flakes. Even a humble dish like pumpkin gnocchi surprises with nuanced pumpkin in all forms: seared cubes, marinated ribbons, toasted seeds, and a final drizzle of pumpkin seed oil. It’s high time local diners discovered the charms of this five-star hotel restaurant.