Bombay Budapest

There’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in Budapest, but Bombay brings something entirely new to the table: inspired Indian cuisine in the stylish setting of a contemporary urban bar. Rarely do alcoholic drinks play a major role in curry houses nor are tasting menus de rigueur, but here, several 5-course degustation menus are paired with either Moët & Chandon or a curated wine flight. However, Bombay doesn’t lean towards fine dining. Come midday, you’ll find a classic thali menu: a metal tray lined with katori chaats, those small gleaming vessels that now echo the fashionable small-plate trend. Bombay sidesteps the often overly elaboate interior of many Indian eateries. There’s no shortage of colour – dusky blues, burnished golds and deep reds abound – but crepuscular lighting lends the space a cool, contemporary charm. The kitchen is run by Indian chefs, so authenticity is assured. While there are playful nods to the gourmet world, the foundations are still familiar flavours: curries, tikkas, paneers, tandoor-baked delights, naan and basmati rice. The menu brims with extras, too: the chicken tikka masala is made with a house spice paste, and few places offer side dishes like coconut, cashew and mustard seed rice. Both the seasoning and plating are subtly attuned to European tastes. Exceptional, too, is the wine and cocktail list, with a generous range by the glass and a scintillant line-up of sparkling wines. This is the blueprint for how to bring traditional Indian cuisine into the cosmopolitan present.