Cvekedli Étterem Vászoly

The tiny bistro in Vászoly has reopened after a short pause, with a new name and new management. The owner of the nearby Kuti-Kerti Restaurant saw potential in the former pub and off-licence, and reimagined it as a restaurant. Its familiar charm has been retained: a pet cat, tiled stove, aga cooker, vintage sideboards, red enamel pots, old radios and scales, family photos on the walls, and a chalkboard menu. The bistro menu speaks straight to the Hungarian heart – though will stir German ones too. A cauldron-cooked fisherman’s soup sets the tone, and the former local favourite, breaded duck liver, remains. They don’t hold back in summer heat either: generous portions of pork knuckle or half a roast duck with mash and cinnamon-apple cabbage. In a nod to Hungarians, the namesake cvekedli pasta can be ordered either sweet or peppered. We encountered a few small uncertainties from both the kitchen and the otherwise eager and good-humoured staff – but the early momentum is there for this to become one of Lake Balaton’s next cult spots.