Lajver Borbisztró

As our guide goes to press it is conceivable that many readers may never have heard of Lajver Borbisztró. Set among the Szekszárd hills near the tiny village of Szálka (population: just 600), Lajver’s 26-hectare vineyard is home to a discretely impressive estate. The winery’s building is barely visible at first glance, designed to blend almost imperceptibly into the hillside. The visitor centre, restaurant, accommodation, winery and cellar form a seamless part of the landscape – a harmonious presence in a verdant setting. Although it exudes understated ease, the scale and architecture still impress. Egon Kopis leads the creative bistro kitchen – and doesn’t hide behind the scenes. He makes a point of engaging with guests, happily offering insight between courses. Our amuse-bouche brought duck liver mousse and real Transylvanian vineta (aubergine cream), a promising start built on great flavours and textures. The goulash, served with sourdough crisps, had a rich, rounded taste, with vegetables holding their bite and tender meat that wasn’t overcooked. Later courses – grilled veal liver, venison tenderloin and pike-perch – were each executed with an astonishing level of technical finesse. The full range of Lajver’s wines is available, including some exciting limited editions – and nearly all are offered by the glass. At the time of our visit, the six-course menu was 17,000 forints, or 22,000 with wine pairings. In that price category, this level of cuisine simply doesn’t exist in Hungary. A destination that worth the journey .