LÁNG Restaurant

Hungary’s first five-star hotel, the Hilton Budapest, was constructed in the long-abandoned ruins of a Dominican monastery in the Buda Castle District. Its largest dining venue, Láng Restaurant, commands sweeping vistas over the Danube and the northern tower of the Fishermen’s Bastion. The previously retro-tinged “bistro & grill” concept is now being refined into a more polished identity. Guests are seated in a single open space, but the layout – with tables oriented towards the immense windows – creates a sense of intimacy. Chef András Kanyó’s menu is not built on culinary fireworks, as it caters primarily to hotel guests, but the seasonal offerings reveal a fondness for both classical and modern cuisine. On our visit, the smoked sterlet from Keszthely impressed in a marinated kohlrabi ravioli with bergamot orange and mango: vibrant, balanced, and subtly tart. The braised beef cheek was meltingly tender and surprisingly generous; its jus was pure and full-bodied, and the oven-baked túrós csusza (pasta with curd cheese) came neatly shaped. Strips of crispy bacon and a dusting of paprika on sour cream foam nudged the dish toward the familiar flavours of Hungarian tradition. The wine list is compact and coherent, with a major strength: over twenty wines by the glass. Naturally, one challenge is to entice non-residents up to the Hilton. But the view is not the only reason to visit – the carefully executed, flavourful dishes also merit the trip.