MI A KŐ

As Budapest’s infatuation with the Káli Basin settles down, MI A KŐ in Köveskál continues to thrive – steadily, and with its usual high standards. The name (“What the Rock”) is witty: a nod to both one of Hungary’s great poets and the fossilised remnants of the Pannonian Sea still visible in the area. The whole place is captivatingly simple. From the outside, it might be mistaken for a village shop – but inside, the décor steers clear of the often out-of-place country kitsch and shabby chic typical of some Balaton eateries. Instead, vintage furniture suits the homely rural mood. The conservatory is more modern and minimalist, designed to let the lush garden view take centre stage. The setting is well-kept but not over-manicured – natural, easy-going, and even the odd cat might wander through. The kitchen also aims for simplicity: some dishes evoke home cooking more than restaurant pomp. The menu changes frequently, a sign of their commitment to freshness. Chicken Kiev is a risky choice almost anywhere – too often it's a cheese-stuffed imposter – but here, quite the opposite: a golden coating gives way to a lush core of truffle butter that spills seductively onto the mashed potato. Dessert was a warm, thick slice of walnut bread pudding, served on a bed of custard that – commendably – wasn’t overly sweet. The restaurant is dog-friendly, and in peak season, reservations are essential: it fills up daily, a clear sign of its enduring popularity – regardless of passing Balaton trend.