Mischenko kitchen

The name leaves little room for doubt—we’re in the realm of an auteur kitchen. Chef-owner Igor Mischenko moved to Hungary a while back, bringing with him a distinctive style. Tompa Street offers a congenial backdrop, with broad pavements, little traffic and lush greenery. The dining space is friendly and modest in size, while in clement weather, the leafy terrace is a delight. Service is attentive, warm and well-prepared, occurring primarily in English or Ukrainian, although the menu is printed with photos to help with selection. This proves helpful: BBQ pork ribs, for instance, appear under the mistranslation "pork neck", and Chicken Kiev is labelled "meatloaf" on the board. Even so, the line-up is eclectic—centred on BBQ meats, but also featuring iconic Ukrainian and Hungarian dishes (the latter often in Transcarpathian form), along with a range of starters, creative salads and even sushi. The menu is more four-season than seasonal, but the cooking is precise, flavours are well-balanced, and plating gets the attention it deserves. The "borscht bowl" is a rustic, deeply satisfying version of the Ukrainian classic, served with sour cream, spring onion, raw garlic, salted pork back fat and black rye bread spread with dripping. And Mischenko’s Napoleon? A mille-feuille-style dessert—striking to look at and just as rewarding to eat. The wine list includes some twenty labels, mostly from familiar Hungarian producers, nearly all offered by the glass at welcoming prices. It’s in the range of starters and well-chosen wines that the restaurant shines—and for a relaxed evening of shared plates and conversation, Mischenko’s kitchen is well worth seeking out.