N28 Wine and Kitchen

Szabolcs Nagy’s talent has long been clear, but with a new chapter unfolding at N28 – and now running the kitchen solo – he is truly thriving in the role of head chef. A sign of his confidence: alongside the à la carte lunch and dinner menus, there’s also a daily-changing lunch special. These kinds of weekday menus, once popular in gourmet restaurants, have sadly vanished from many places, so it is a real bonus to see a kitchen of this caliber offering one. N28 matches its Nagymező Street location with a proper bistro atmosphere, offering both indoor and outdoor seating. The service, in contrast to the kitchen’s freshness, leans toward the old-school side: charming, a little world-weary, and very much in the vein of classic Budapest waiters. But in today’s fast-paced dining world, that retro touch can feel surprisingly comforting. Nagy’s bold Hungarian flavours are worth paying attention to. He brings dynamism to offal and red meat dishes with well-honed techniques and a great sense of balance. If the menu lists bone marrow, gizzards, foie gras, duck greaves, pig trotter stew, or veal paprikash, do not pass them up. During our visit, the goulash soup came with an unexpected addition: sausage. Yet despite its richness, the broth managed to stay vibrant, with deep but lively flavours. The veal liver with mashed potatoes was beautifully simple and perfectly cooked, the liver soft and yielding, the mash creamy and full without feeling heavy. Sometimes, simplicity is the win. The wine list is anchored by the in-house selections from the restaurant’s two winemaker-owners, supported by bottles from small- and mid-sized Hungarian producers, including some excellent natural wines. This is one of the most mature and impressive showings from Hungary’s rising generation of chefs