Sáfrány Pisztrángudvar

Trout has earned the title of the street food of Bükk — no trip to Lillafüred or Szilvásvárad feels complete without stopping at one of the local fry shacks. Just off the winding road, through a small garden gate, you step into the Trout Courtyard: simple picnic benches in the heart of the forest, with earth-dug pools teeming with fish. A sign announces what everyone comes here for — Trout smoked and baked in the stove. There’s no messing around when it comes to sides: factory-made white bread, some cabbage — nothing to distract from the fish. And the trout truly is superb: the skin crackles as you bite in, giving way to moist, clean-flavoured flesh, gently kissed with smoke, never overpowering. In the Szalajka Valley, they also run a shop where the same fish is available frozen.