Smoke N’ Roses

BBQ dishes may be ubiquitous these days, but if it’s proper smoked meat you’re after, only the pitmaster-run joints will do. In Nyíregyháza, Zsolt Novák has opened his own smokehouse — no-frills on the surface, but with a backyard fit for firing up a serious smoker and letting the meat cook low and slow. Smoky brisket and whiskey-infused BBQ sauce are staples, but the smoked chicken and mango sandwich is a huge hit with regulars. Even the salads come topped with beef tenderloin or smoked duck breast. Limp, tasteless fries often plague such places, but here the chips are delightfully crisp and golden. For the hungry the two-person ‘Best of BBQ’ platter brings no fewer than seven different meats. Best not to bring your vegetarian friends.