Szaletly Vendéglő és Kert

For years, this part of the city remained off the radar of the contemporary culinary scene. Today, Szaletly has become a big name in Zugló—luring not only locals, but also diners from across Budapest and even neighbouring towns. A restaurant has operated on this site for more than a century, since 1907, and the current owners pay homage to that heritage while steering the house in a bold new direction. History is present, but never stifling: one evening a traditional Gypsy band may be playing, the next a blues-jazz group. The interior, too, strikes a careful balance between nostalgia and modernity—clean-lined, with playful retro accents. What truly defines Szaletly, though, is the joyful, creative cooking of head chef Dániel Bernát. Rarely has a collaboration proved so fruitful: in just a few years, he has blossomed into a chef with a clearly recognisable culinary signature. Open-minded and globally attuned, his cooking shows a particular fondness for Asian flavours, while also embracing the often-overlooked classics of Hungary’s more recent past—especially the favourites of the late 20th century. Some of these are wittily reimagined in double-layered culinary gags, like the Stefánia Meatloaf served on Stefánia út, or the outstanding poppy seed bread pudding we enjoyed on our visit—baked with advocaat, drizzled with raspberry honey, and topped with white poppy seed foam. Not to be overlooked is the wine list, which features nearly 100 items and showcases a wide range of regions and grape varieties. Szaletly is warmly recommended to those who love Hungarian cuisine but welcome innovation and a distinct sense of culinary style.