TATI Farm to Table

An stylish haven in the heart of Budapest’s tourist quarter. Dohány Street might seem an unlikely venue for a farm-to-table concept, but TATI sticks to its principles with conviction. The team runs its own family farm in Biatorbágy and is committed to sourcing as many ingredients as possible from small-scale producers. All of this is set within a chic, urban environment, open from 8am to midnight. The menu centres on Hungarian cuisine. And while hay bales line the tops of the wine fridges and breakfast includes sausage and guanciale, TATI is, at heart, a contemporary fine bistro. Head chef Gábor Soóky has been joined by Zsolt Haraszti, and together they reimagine local classics—from paprika chicken to creamy squash stew, from potato dumplings to Mămăligă with ewe’s cheese. They ferment their own vegetables too, offered both fresh and pickled. Presentation is polished and creatively composed without tipping into pretension. The wild boar sausage we tried was boldly seasoned, the paprika—sourced, our server proudly noted, from the Fajsz Manufactory—superb. A quince chutney added bright acidity. The vegan stuffed cabbage was technically accomplished, complemented by pickled red cabbage that rounded out the dish. It could have used a touch more flavour, but overall, their plant-based options are handled with skill and confidence. You might not guess you’re in a farm-to-table restaurant from the plates alone, but the staff are well-briefed and eager to share the stories behind each dish, including the origins of the ingredients. A fine restaurant, and a refreshing presence on the local dining scene.