YÜME

The setting may feel familiar: occupying a courtyard on Baross Street in Józsefváros, the once-cultural space of Patyolat — now faded and graffiti-scrawled — was home to Ensō, whose spirit now lives on in Yüme. Founders Emese Kámán and chef Martin Nádudvari remain at the helm, continuing their bold take on Japanese-leaning Asian fusion. The look fits the location — part industrial, part ruin pub. The dimly lit interior and functional furniture aren't especially cosy, but the space is spotless. The focus is firmly on the food: authentic and unmistakably individual. Ramen is just the beginning — the menu tempts with a vibrant array of fusion small plates. Highlights included the nasu dengaku, miso-glazed aubergine with bonito flakes, and sublimely cooked razor clams with chimichurri. The korokke stuffed with juicy pork cheek stood out, as did the paprika chicken udon,where the intense sauce meets crisp chicken skin for an inspired textural contrast. Ingredients are fresh, execution assured, and flavours full of character. The occasional imbalance in proportion suits the format —experimentation is part of the charm. Service is professional and well-informed, with staff happy to share the stories behind the food. Wine takes somewhat of a back seat, but nearly every item is offered by the glass. The cocktail list, meanwhile, is as original and well judged as the cooking. Yüme is the kind of place that makes Budapest so compelling: pushing the envelope yet solid in execution.