Zenit Balaton Étterem & Bar

True to its name, Zenit surveys Lake Balaton from above, perched high in Vonyarcvashegy. A thoughtfully designed space with a shaded terrace, it allows parents to keep an eye on their children in the playground even from behind the restaurant’s glass walls. Chef István Ács runs a busy kitchen, with the daily chef’s specials alone featuring no fewer than 11 dishes. The menu proudly reflects its Zala roots, offering regional specialities such as beef cheek stew with dödölle (potato dumplings), “Zala style juicy pancakes”, and a four-course Festetics (a noble Hungarian family) menu. The wine list, too, stands out for its scope. While the focus remains on the Balaton region, acclaimed wines of István Szepsy pop up. Service is attentive and well-paced. Still, the overall experience would benefit from a more harmonious table setting: at times, elegant plates are accompanied by cutlery, side plates or napkins more reminiscent of a canteen than a fine restaurant. The ingredients are of impressively high quality, a welcome change from the substandard fare often found around Lake Balaton. One especially intriguing starter pairs smoked sturgeon with a duck liver filling and elderflower yoghurt. A main course of mangalitsa neck is meltingly tender and full of flavour, while the spinach risotto served alongside employs the proper Italian method. Dessert surprises, too: floating islands is daringly paired with sorrel. This slightly tart addition startles sublimely against the familiar sweetness. The full experience is best enjoyed as part of a stay at the four-star Zenit Hotel, but even the restaurant alone makes the trip to Vonyarcvashegy worthwhile.